Preserving the authenticity of handwork and tradition

The Chikankari industry is marked by its intricate, highly specialized and interdependent structure, with artisans spread across a network that ensures every stage of production is completed in different locations by different craftspeople. The success of this process depends on seamless coordination and communication between each step of the journey.

It begins with the entrepreneur, who invests in acquiring the fabric and overseeing its cutting, stitching and printing with tracings with different craftspeople. Once prepared, the fabric is passed on for embroidery.

An intermediary agent then distributes the work among the karigars, collects the finished pieces and returns them to the entrepreneur.

The agent handles all payments, compensating artisans based on their contribution, often with little direct contact between the business owner and the artisans.

Gender roles

Chikankari tasks have traditionally been gendered: men typically handle tailoring, printing, and laundering, while embroidery remains predominantly women’s work. This division contrasts with earlier times when male artisans were highly regarded for their mastery in embroidery.

However, over the past three decades, significant shifts have occurred, driven by the support of NGOs, empowering women to take on roles as expert tailors and printers. Additionally, tasks like washing and ironing, once managed by washermen (dhobhis), have increasingly been performed by women.

It is worth noting and appreciating that each Chikankari garment, even the simplest one (as small as a hankerchief), passes through the hands of upto ten skilled artisans, each contributing their expertise, creativity, and labor to the finished product.

Becoming a ‘karigar’

The apprenticeship of a karigar often begins in childhood, with young artisans learning the craft informally by assisting family members. Skills are passed down through observation, imitation, and practice.

Today, this traditional transmission is complemented by training programs offered through NGOs and government initiatives, which help further refine artisans’ skills and expand opportunities.

Authenticity // Hand-embroidered vs. machine-made chikankari

The distinction between hand-embroidered and machine-made Chikankari lies in the artistry and individuality inherent in each hand-stitched piece. Hand embroidery is a delicate and nuanced process, employing various stitches, textures, and threads, typically cotton or silk (resham). Each stitch carries the imprint of the artisan’s skill and creativity, making each piece one-of-a-kind. The varying thickness of threads enables rich detailing, resulting in a finish that is both refined and unique.

Machine-made Chikankari, in contrast, relies on computer-controlled patterns, producing uniformity and speed but sacrificing the subtle artistry and distinctiveness found in handwork. Each machine-stitched piece is identical, lacking the personal touch that makes handwork so valuable.

Hand-embroidered Chikankari is precious and timeless, with skill and creativity invested in each piece. It is celebrated for its authenticity and the artistry that shines through in every stitch.

Protecting and promoting the Chikankari karigars

In December 2008, Chikankari from Lucknow was awarded Geographical Indication (GI) certification, granting exclusive rights to the artisans in Lucknow and its surrounding areas.

This certification ensures the protection and promotion of authentic Chikankari, preventing unauthorized production outside the region. It benefits over 3 lakh artisans, preserving the heritage and craftsmanship that defines this renowned art form.

Header Image & research inputs source : Paola Manfredi book Chikankari, A Lucknawi Tradition.